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Author: noyau

Replacement footpegs

There are a lot of potential replacement footpegs you can use on the 790 Adventure. Bigger, lower, moved back, in aluminium or stainless steel, the choices are multiple.

advrider inmate Kubcat collated all the lowered footpegs he could find and put them all in a spreadsheet. Which is now available for you, until we figure out how to format this in a better form. Maybe.

Lots of info on the spreadsheet.

Rear shock failure

On the R, and only on the R, there are reports of rear shocks failing and needing to be rebuild. It’s hard to figure out hard numbers, but there are a few. Just to be clear the issues are of shock leaking oil, broken seals, not broken shaft or “exploding shock” as you can read online.

There is a theory going around incriminating the catalytic converter: it is really hot, and very close to the shock, so it is possible that it is heating up the oil or the seals, thus causing the failure. Some facts however don’t align very well with this theory:

  • This failure is only on the R, the S model is not affected at all. If the catalysts were in fact “boiling the oil inside the shock” as I’ve read it in place, there would have been failures of the S shocks as well;
  • There is at least one example of a failing shock absorber on a bike with the catalyser removed from day one. Ergo, the catalyser in that case was not to blame;
  • As bikes get more mileage, failure rate should have increased. This is not the case, the bikes with failing shock absorbers are all low mileage (less than 2k, very new).

This seems to indicate that the issue is probably not the catalyser but more likely a default on some shocks with a problem from the factory.

I started a discussion thread about it there to try to gather more facts.

Camel ADV sells a product to protect the shock from the catalyser heat that may help keep the shock working temp to be lower.

Cold start procedure

There are reports of cold start issues. The engine starts, but stalls right away, requiring multiple tries to start and hold idle.

Before looking at anything else, try following this foolproof start procedure:

  • Make sure the kill switch is in the neutral position (Better, when you stop the engine with the kill switch, train yourself to always put it back in the neutral position right away);
  • Put your key in, turn the power on;
  • Listen to the fuel pump building pressure in the circuit. Wait until it stops. Note that this priming will not happen if the kill switch is engaged. The manual recommend waiting until the instrument panel starts, which takes roughly the same time as the priming;
  • Don’t touch the throttle;
  • Tap the start button. Don’t keep it pressed until the engine fires, just give it a tap and the engine will start by itself.

If this doesn’t start the engine every time, or if the engine stalls right away, check your fuel filter for contamination and the pressure at the fuel pump (or ask your dealer to do it). Note: Filters are black when wet, white when dry: don’t assume a dark filter is a dirty one.

If it stills acts funny, talk to your dealer.

Steering damper

The 790 adventure come standard with a simple steering damper. It’s fine, but for serious off road junkies it is not enough. There are other options out there that allow for more fine tuning (aka, dampening when going away from center, but not the other way, etc). There is a hole with a plastic plug right under the handlebar just for that purpose.

All those dampeners are going under the handlebar, this means that their mounting kits are also raising the handlebar and probably moving it forward at the same time. Keep an eye on handguard, as moving the bar forward may cause them to hit the instrument panel…

Also, if you fit one of those you need to remove the original dampener.

Scott’s damper

The most talked about, and a well proven solution on a number of bikes. With slow and high speed separate circuits, and in business since forever. $660 for the device and a mounting kit specific for the 790. The mounting kit is massive as it also adds rubber damping to the handlebar itself.

Scott’s damper with Scott’s mount

A simpler, lighter and cheaper mount is available from TripleClamp in the UK for £160, or £475 with the device.

GPR damper

Simpler solution, with only one simple button, this damper will not protect you as well against hitting a rock a speed as it lacks the high speed circuit of the Scott’s. But still, it probably does most of the job, releases when hitting a 15º angle. $525 with mounting kit.

MSC Damper

From Australia, another simple damper with one button and a mounting kit. AU$645 without shipping.

XRC damper

Chris Birch’s own, so you’ve seen this device in multiple videos already. XRC is a NewZealand company, with no web presence except for Facebook. No price, no shop, no nothing I could find. Apparently the mount on Chris’s bike is a homemade prototype, not sure if it made it into any kind of production.

Update: Someone posted pictures! Full package reported costing 1010 NZD / $635 / €575

Brake/Clutch controls

If you’re like me, brake and clutch levers are consumable. But the availability for replacements are limited (for now). KTM clutch (p/n 63502040000, €60) and brake (p/n 63513002044, €55) levers are ok, but better controls do exists.

Raximo makes short (€100/pair) and long (€120/pair) replacement levers in aluminium with a large choice of colors. I’m sure you can select more tasteful colors than the ones below:

Watch out for the Chinese knock off on ebay or other. People have ordered parts and they never shipped, and some received 790 Duke parts (they are different, the Duke has a radial master cylinder).

If you just want a shorter lever and not afraid of some DIY, garageengineer on ADVRider posted a how to to shorten the stock clutch lever.

Hacked short clutch lever

A shorter clutch lever, activated with two fingers, is harder to pull than a full sized one of course. Short or long, Camel ADV made a small little gadget making the clutch course longer and diminishing the effort at the lever. It’s called the One Finger Clutch.

Someone on facebook made another longer clutch extender, no idea of availability or cost:

Side stand switch

Ron Palm (Advronski) made a modification to the exposed side stand switch. It prevents any damage to the switch from stranding you out in the wilderness. If you ride off road a lot, maybe something to consider.

[Note: A recipe for a small switch bypass to carry in the toolbox would be nice]

Canister vent

On the right side of the bike there is a little vent tube with a plastic 90º angle that clips on the right tank protection. It is labelled “Air” with a little arrow. This is the charcoal canister vent, aka it is indirectly connected to your fuel tank.

If this vent tube is not clipped in place it may touch the exhaust that goes along the bash plate (on the left on this picture) and the plastic will melt. There are cases of the melting completely closing the vent, meaning that the fuel tank is no longer vented and that pressure will raise inside. A heavily pressurised fuel tank is a huge fire risk…

Fuel venting circuit. The plastic clip is #22.

Not to mention that this vent that may leak fuel if you tank is overflowing: probably not the best item to have dangling over the really hot exhaust.

Always double check that this vent is properly clipped at the right place every time the bash plate is removed. And when you collect the bike from the dealer as the bash plate is a dealer install.

Chain tension

The manual is not very clear on how to check the chain tension. I mean, at first glance this doesn’t look obvious:

Manual page about chain tension

To use this procedure you need the rear lifted from the ground, but from the swing arm with your favorite lifting gear. Not with a center stand…

Then with the top portion of the chain taunt to begin with, you lift the lower chain in the position they indicate at both ends of the B arrows, flattening it out. The gap (‘A’) needs to be 2-5mm (source).

If in doubt prefer a loose chain. At rest on the side stand, the chain should be very slack.

Tires. Tyres. Pneus. Rueda. Rubber.

What tire should you use?

There are as many opinions about tires than they are pilots on the road. What tires to get? Well, it depends. This FAQ will not go into the trap of recommending a particular set.

Here is an exhaustive list of tires, most of them with a size compatible with the 790 (it’s in French, just ignore the text). It goes from 10% off-road to 95% off-road. Each notch sacrifices a bit of road manner to improve some off-road capabilities. Make your own choice.

If you are really desperate, there is a thread about it on advrider.

Size, speed rating, load index, and factory fit.

The 790 Adventure R comes with Metzeler Karoo3 (Due to the M+S status of those tires, speed must be kept under 170km/h (106mph), as denoted by the ‘R’ speed rating in the tire denomination)

  • Front 90/90-21 M/C 54R M+S TL
  • Rear 150/70-18 M/C 70R M+S TL

The 790 Adventure S comes with Avon Trailriders (Those are ‘V’ rated, up to 240 km/h – 149mph)

  • Front 90/90-21 M/C 54V TL
  • Rear 150/70R18 M/C 70V TL

Both share the same load index, 54 front, 70 rear, meaning a max weight of 212kg (467lbs) in the front, and 335kg (739lbs) on the rear. This should be plenty, and if you buy a new set, it must match or exceed those values.

For example (and this is just an example, not a recommendation!) the Tractionator Rallz are available in the following size:

  • Front 90/90-21 M/C 54Q TL
  • Rear 150/70B18 M/C 70Q TL

Right size for the bike, and same load index of 54 and 70. Note that the rear tire is Belted instead of Bias ply for the Karoo3 and Radial for the Trailriders. But most importantly the speed is further limited to 160km/h (99mph) with these tires.

Tire pressure

It’s all in the manual, and the same pressure for all models (The S manual doesn’t mention off-road)

Adventure R manual, page 257
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