On the right side of the bike there is a little vent tube with a plastic 90º angle that clips on the right tank protection. It is labelled “Air” with a little arrow. This is the charcoal canister vent, aka it is indirectly connected to your fuel tank.
If this vent tube is not clipped in place it may touch the exhaust that goes along the bash plate (on the left on this picture) and the plastic will melt. There are cases of the melting completely closing the vent, meaning that the fuel tank is no longer vented and that pressure will raise inside. A heavily pressurised fuel tank is a huge fire risk…
Not to mention that this vent that may leak fuel if you tank is overflowing: probably not the best item to have dangling over the really hot exhaust.
Always double check that this vent is properly clipped at the right place every time the bash plate is removed. And when you collect the bike from the dealer as the bash plate is a dealer install.
The manual is not very clear on how to check the chain tension. I mean, at first glance this doesn’t look obvious:
To use this procedure you need the rear lifted from the ground, but from the swing arm with your favorite lifting gear. Not with a center stand…
Then with the top portion of the chain taunt to begin with, you lift the lower chain in the position they indicate at both ends of the B arrows, flattening it out. The gap (‘A’) needs to be 2-5mm (source).
If in doubt prefer a loose chain. At rest on the side stand, the chain should be very slack.
There are as many opinions about tires than they are pilots on the road. What tires to get? Well, it depends. This FAQ will not go into the trap of recommending a particular set.
Here is an exhaustive list of tires, most of them with a size compatible with the 790 (it’s in French, just ignore the text). It goes from 10% off-road to 95% off-road. Each notch sacrifices a bit of road manner to improve some off-road capabilities. Make your own choice.
The 790 Adventure R comes with Metzeler Karoo3 (Due to the M+S status of those tires, speed must be kept under 170km/h (106mph), as denoted by the ‘R’ speed rating in the tire denomination)
Front 90/90-21 M/C 54R M+S TL
Rear 150/70-18 M/C 70R M+S TL
The 790 Adventure S comes with Avon Trailriders (Those are ‘V’ rated, up to 240 km/h – 149mph)
Front 90/90-21 M/C 54V TL
Rear 150/70R18 M/C 70V TL
Both share the same load index, 54 front, 70 rear, meaning a max weight of 212kg (467lbs) in the front, and 335kg (739lbs) on the rear. This should be plenty, and if you buy a new set, it must match or exceed those values.
For example (and this is just an example, not a recommendation!) the Tractionator Rallz are available in the following size:
Front 90/90-21 M/C 54Q TL
Rear 150/70B18 M/C 70Q TL
Right size for the bike, and same load index of 54 and 70. Note that the rear tire is Belted instead of Bias ply for the Karoo3 and Radial for the Trailriders. But most importantly the speed is further limited to 160km/h (99mph) with these tires.
It’s all in the manual, and the same pressure for all models (The S manual doesn’t mention off-road)
It is annoying to not being able to click the fuel cap back in place, you need to use the key to open and to close the cap. For people with a Scott Damper in place this is highly annoying as the cap is hinged forward: you need to use the key to open the cap, remove the key so it doesn’t hit the damper, open fully, fill the tank and then put the key back in the lock to close the cap.
One solution is to install the KTM screw fuel cap (P/N 63507908044), but this means the tank is no longer locked (and the cap is not attached to the bike). Or get one from a third party.
An excellent solution is a hack that allows for closing the fuel cap by just pressing on it, no key necessary. The key is still required to open the cap, but you can remove it right away as you don’t need it to close.
First you need to take out the 2 Phillips screws to remove the cover over the latch pawl: watch out the spring and pawl will probably go flying, as they did on this pic. This can be done on the bike, but make sure you cover and protect the hole so nothing can fell in the fuel tank. An alternative is to first remove the assembly from the bike.
When you have retrieved the pawl and spring, take the pawl and mark the black area, which will have to be removed to allow the pawl to move when the key is removed:
Drill, grind, file with your favorite tools (drilling first to the floor, then dremel to finish seems the easiest way to do so) until you get to this result:
You then reassemble the lock by carefully maintaining the spring and pawl in place while you slid and screw the cover back on top.
[This is all a copy of the AdvRonski hard work on AdvRider.com. All credits to him for the idea, the realisation and the photos, all on this post. And to Braaap! who followed the instructions successfully and encouraged me to put this in the FAQ]
This site has been hacked a week or so ago. And was for a while serving spam according to some geo localization rules. Of course my own geo location was not targeted, so I didn’t notice at all… Thanks to the people who send me messages to let me know.
After a fine tuned scan of the site pages I found weird code in plenty of places. I still don’t know how the intrusion happened, but after cleaning up the mess I installed supplemental security measures, turned off a bunch of services I didn’t use, and buttoned up the installation.
If you were affected by the outage, please accept my apologies. I hate spammers, and being ambushed while visiting my site is not something I wished to happen.
October 27 2019
Updated centerstand with more details about the TrailStar gadget.
Another less protective option, that protects the sensor but not snagging of the wire, is available from a fellow on the French KTMmania forums for 3D printing (registration required, French mandatory to understand anything). STL file is send on request…