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Category: Electrics and electronics

Everything powered by electricity, and all the driving assistances

3D Printed GPS support

For other supports, see GPS mounts.

I designed two GPS support. The first version was very simple and only need drilling to set in place. But it failed once, and once is one too many. Please stop using that mount or at a minimum use a tether.

The second version is more robust, uses threaded inserts to keep thing in place. But it requires more DIY work.

All my designs are free, I provide the STL ready to print and also the OpenSCAD file used to create it, allowing you to modify the design if you wish. OpenSCAD is free and can be installed on any computer.

Original version (bottom), vs version for inserts, both fresh from printing.

Original simple version

The files are still available on Thingiverse. If you print or have printed this design be aware that the tabs holding the mount to the bike can break. At a minimum please use a tether (any kind of line preventing your GPS to fall if the tabs break).

Version with inserts

This version is sturdier, but requires some manual labor once the part is printed. So first you print the part using your favorite techniques. The STL is also available on thingiverse. Note that for extrusion printing the part will need supports for all the holes.

Then you need brass inserts and fit them. I found mine on amazon, but those are very easy to source. the part is designed for two type of inserts:

  • Two M5x10x7 to insert in the holes connecting to the bike
  • Four M4x10x6 for the AMPS pattern

To insert them put them in place in the entrance of the hole (there is a lip for this purpose in the print) then use a soldering iron to make it hot and let it sink in the plastic by using just the weight of the soldering iron, don’t push! When it is getting very close to its final position remove the soldering iron, flip the part and press it against something flat. this video should make this clearer:

Once the inserts are installed, putting it on the bike is trivial. Bolt it on. Then use 4mm screws to attach your favorite device.

First design on the left, print with insert on the right, ready to go on the bike.

Fuel Gauge

People are confused by the fuel gauge. Plus the fact that some of them where not calibrated properly lead to a lot of confusion.

First of all the fuel gauge only works for the second half of the tank. This is explained in the manual. For the first 10 liters the fuel gauge will show full and the range indicators will display a range with a plus sign, the range being the distance you will do on the half tank. For the second half of the tank each bar is approximately two liters.

If this is not confusing enough, there is also a special behavior of the fuel gauge, caused by the split tank design. The fuel gauge is mounted in the right side tank bottom. When the bike is parked, on the side stand, the fuel will will run to the left side fuel tank trough the connection tubing on the bottom. With little fuel (1/4 and less) in the tank most fuel will end up on the left side. When you start riding, the fuel gauge will indicate a very low fuel level, blinking red. After a few minutes the fuel will moved over to the right hand side again and balance out, then the fuel gauge will show normal level again and the fuel range will increase to what it actually is.

In short, don’t trust the fuel level as you start the bike. Ride for three or four minutes to get an accurate reading.

This is not a defect, but a normal behavior of the tank design with two low halves. If KTM had mounted the fuel gauge in the left side, it would show a much too large level when you start riding, which might leave you stranded shortly after. One option would be two fuel sensors, one on each side and some software to clear things up, but hey, more complexity, more money 🙂

Reset service warning

The service warning light can be turned off by pressing the right buttons in the right sequence. Note that the service light has two triggers: mileage and date.

The secret is to navigate to highlight the “Settings” menu, and then hold up and down together for 5 seconds. This pops out a page where you can change the data to the next service.

Each press on set will increase the mileage. The date is automatically preselected for 12 months and can’t be changed. To cancel, press the back button. To validate press set for a few seconds. This procedure is not the same as the one described in the shop manual (see documents), but the one there doesn’t work as described.

Tire Pressure Monitoring System

TPMS information is shown in the manual, but nothing is available on powerparts. The part for the 790 Duke (P/n 64112932044. £114) is not compatible, the KTM tool cannot install it.

According to a dealer who asked KTM Austria the TPMS is still in development, and will be available later.

The install will be fairly involved: tires need to be removed to install replacement valves, a receiver plugged in, and a software activation done.

A cheap alternative, if you have a Zumo GPS, Garmin offers TPMS valves caps that connects to it.

KTM MY RIDE navigation

You need to download the KTM MyRide app (£8/€9) to your smartphone. If you want to operate without a data service you can also download the country maps to your phone. The Bluetooth (optional) symbol on the combination instrument actually refers to a pairing of a device via KTM MY RIDE

The navigation app is fairly basic, and the display in the bike is just directions and pictograms. For short road trips it is fine. But not at the level of a real GPS or phone app like waze, google map or calimoto.

Note that early bikes had problems connecting to phones and showing navigation. See early faults, the bike may need a software update.

Very old bluetooth devices may have problem communicating with the bike. The first gen Sena SMH 5 and 10 for example, the ones without USB port for updating, will not work properly.

Smartphone mount

Note: Keep in mind that phones are hard to read in strong direct sunlight, can overheat easily and switch off. And they are difficult to manipulate with gloves.

The bracket for handlebar mounting p/n 61712991100 at £61, then the case for the phone into which the bracket clips is about £35 (different part numbers for different phones).

Plenty of third party provide phone mounts, and using a GPS mount with some RAM hardware is probably the better option as it moves the phone higher in the field of vision. A quadlock on a RAM ball is quite practical for example. Or a X-Grip which also mount with a RAM ball.

GPS mount

See the article on power to connect the GPS.

KTM part

The most viewable place is above the TFT screen where the “Remove for GPS Mount” is. There is a part from KTM (p/n 63512992044, €58) but there is reports of some instability. Some others seem happy with it however.

KTM Official GPS support

Drill Hack

In a pinch you can drill the part on the bike to put a RAM ball. This has been reported to be weak as the plastic part is not designed for it, and it causes vibration with large GPS. Innovative reinforcements have been implemented (back plate, epoxy glue filling…). But the tabs connecting to the bike are definitely not designed for this kind of load, if you do something like this do tether your GPS for safety.

Ram ball screwed on GPS location – Krysař Krysař on Facebook

3D Print

Or you can print a support if you have access to a 3D printer, or pay to get it printed. Check the page dedicated to self printing your GPS mount. Use with a B-Sized RAM ball on an AMPS pattern (RAM-B-347U), a short RAM Arm (RAM-B-201U-A) to a RAM ball fixed on the back of your device (Which for a Garmin device mount is probably another RAM-B-347U). But to tuck the GPS as much as possible a combination of a RAM ball on the GPS and a socket on the mount makes for the best clearance. The socket is not made by RAM, but can be found at various places online.

3D printed support in situ

MotoMinded took this 3D model, improved it, and is printing it in a sturdy material. The result is for sale for $22.

There is another 3D printable model, only at shapeways (aka, you can’t print it yourself). It is different and doesn’t seem to require any other hardware (note: it is in two parts, you have to buy both, and it’s unclear what hardware to use to link both parts. Let me know if you know more about this mount). Also, this is also designed with tabs which are a possible point of failure.

3D printed mount on shapeway

Vanasche Mount

The only mount machined from billet aluminium, with a design to pull the mount in place when tightening the screws, this is probably the most sturdy/stable mount available. Available anodized orange or black. AMPS pattern. From Vanasche Motorsports, $100 (or Motominded). Also available down under for 170 $AU and soon in Europe from Offroad-Kontor (I’ll update once the product is listed with its price)


SW Motech now have a mount available, priced around €60. This projects very far back, over the TFT screen, the device can be mounted directly to the mount. It seems this setup is not very solid, and it wobbles a bit (video)

SWMotech mount


Givi has released a mount specific to the 790, putting a bar high up to fasten your devices to. Reference Givi FB 7710. There is no images in the product description on Givi’s page, but an ebay auction showed a couple of pics of the manual, see below. Around €40. This mount will only function if the original plastic part is present as it uses it to lock itself.

The Givi mount is hackable, one reader (hi Anders!) installed it rotated 180º to get closer to the screen (and higher), and reports that it can be drilled to eventually change the position of the bar. See pic below.

Givi FB7710 mounted at 180º with a lockable mount for a GPSMAP 276cx

Handlebar mounts

There is a handlebar mount from the 790 Duke that fits (P/n  64112992033, €40). But this put the GPS very low at a place where it is hard to read while riding.

KTM handlebar mount
Markus Ramirez/Facebook

On the handlebar there are other alternatives like the MotoMinded Stoutmount which is offering a little bit more flexibility in GPS placement.

Rally Pack

This adds Rally Mode to the base S model. Your KTM dealer need to install a software enabler (P/n 63500910000) at about £175. Rally mode is only software and included on the ‘R’.

There was an interesting chart passed on by KTM to the journalists during the bike presentation in Morocco about what setting to use in which conditions. It was published in this article and reproduced below.

Traction control recommended settings

Heated grips

Original Grip removal

On the left side roll the factory rubber grip back: on the bottom there is a set screw. Remove and slide the entire grip off.

For the right side remove the throttle tube system from the bike by unscrewing the 2 Phillips screws from the throttle sensor/housing. The throttle tube slides right off.

KTM easy to install option

(P/n is 64112964044), cost about £145, with a separate non-integrated controller.

The big advantage of the KTM part is the simplicity of the throttle install as the grips are designed to fit in place of the existing parts: reverse the steps for removing the grips to install the heated one, it’s dead easy.

The rest of the install is simple: install the controller, wire it to the ACC power in the headlight.

Despite the easy install the result of installing the KTM grips is not well integrated with the bike, with an ugly controller which resets every time the ignition is turned off. .

Third party install

You might want to consider non KTM options, and go with the grips you like. Below you can find the steps to install the Koso Apollo grips (also known as Technoglobe Gold) which have an integrated controller in the left grip. Make sure to get the 130mm version.

There is discussion as the exact diameter of those grips once installed. The two installs used to write this FAQ entry disagree on the sizes! One states that they are slimmer than the original grip. The other claims that the same grips are thicker! I guess more that one versions of those grips exists, hence the discrepancy?

On the left side, install is dead easy: slide the new grip in place, you’re done.

The difficulty of the install is all due to the throttle tube. It is not available as a separate part from KTM, so you need to figure a way to unglue the rubber from the plastic tube and then file it clean. There is however a third party aluminium throttle tube available, I haven’t seen any report of an install yet, but it looks promising (Slavens Racing, $80) [If you install it, please let me know, so I can update the FAQ]

Slavens Racing aluminium replacement throttle tube

To retrieve the throttle tube one way is to scrap the grip off with a blade. It’s long and dirty, but works:

The brute force scrapping option

Another option is to make a slit on the whole length of the rubber and skin it off, way cleaner, but it’s difficult not to score the plastic tube.

Once the rubber is removed from the tube, you need to remove the tabs there with a blade as they will prevent the new rubber to slip in place. They are pointed out in this picture. Note the inner hump next to the sensor housing: removing it makes for a snug fit without a strange gap between the housing and the grip. The fit is PERFECT but you only have one try since the fit is so tight.

Once the tube is clean, put the new grips on. On the throttle side pay attention to the position of the wire on the throttle tube as to not limit the range of motion. Check 3 times before doing it.

The rest is easier, just decide if you want to connect to the accessory connector under the seat or in the headlight. The headlight is closer, and easy to open despite the numerous screws. Make sure to fix all the wires and the small controller to not be in the way of any moving parts.

See the entry on power to locate the accessory connectors.

Many thanks to Rickard Holtemark and Warren Vincent Granier on FB for the reports and the photos in this article.

Cruise control

Enabler code (p/n 63500980000) costs about £220, plus a replacement for the four-way combination switch which includes cruise switch (p/n 76011270100), about £78. Total about £300.

Order the combination switch early, stocks are low and the part may take more than a month to arrive. Your dealer can activate CC without the switch and you can install it later, but in that case  there is a simple procedure to follow to sync the hardware switch with the software (thanks to CrazyCole on for the details):

  • Switch on the ignition
    • Cruise control system indicator lamp flashes
  • Press the newly installed control tip switch to the left for 3 seconds
  • Press the cruise control tip switch to position RES/+ for 3 seconds
  • Press the cruise control tip switch to position SET/- for 3 seconds
  • Turn the throttle grip forward past the neutral position (Force it forward a bit, there is a switch on the throttle to disconnect the cruise control if you forcefully decelerate)
    • The cruise control system indicator lamp should go out
  • Switch off the ignition

There is a video showing how to install the combination switch and enabling it.

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