It is annoying to not being able to click the fuel cap back in place, you need to use the key to open and to close the cap. For people with a Scott Damper in place this is highly annoying as the cap is hinged forward: you need to use the key to open the cap, remove the key so it doesn’t hit the damper, open fully, fill the tank and then put the key back in the lock to close the cap.
One solution is to install the KTM screw fuel cap (P/N 63507908044), but this means the tank is no longer locked (and the cap is not attached to the bike)
An excellent solution is a hack that allows for closing the fuel cap by just pressing on it, no key necessary. The key is still required to open the cap, but you can remove it right away as you don’t need it to close.
First you need to take out the 2 Phillips screws to remove the cover over the latch pawl: watch out the spring and pawl will probably go flying, as they did on this pic. This can be done on the bike, but make sure you cover and protect the hole so nothing can fell in the fuel tank. An alternative is to first remove the assembly from the bike.
When you have retrieved the pawl and spring, take the pawl and mark the black area, which will have to be removed to allow the pawl to move when the key is removed:
Drill, grind, file with your favorite tools (drilling first to the floor, then dremel to finish seems the easiest way to do so) until you get to this result:
You then reassemble the lock by carefully maintaining the spring and pawl in place while you slid and screw the cover back on top.
[This is all a copy of the AdvRonski hard work on AdvRider.com. All credits to him for the idea, the realisation and the photos, all on this post. And to Braaap! who followed the instructions successfully and encouraged me to put this in the FAQ]
Another less protective option, that protects the sensor but not snagging of the wire, is available from a fellow on the French KTMmania forums for 3D printing (registration required, French mandatory to understand anything). STL file is send on request…
A denali split sound bomb without the compressor is also a direct fit in place of the original horn. Install is more involved as the compressor needs to be be fixed under the seat for example.
Warning: The denali pulls 30amp, way way more than the original puny horn. Fuses on the bike are all 10Amps. And since the fuse for the horn also controls the instrument cluster and the brake lights there is a high risk of blowing the fuse and losing those functions each time you use the horn if plugged directly. Please feed the denali from the battery, with a large fuse and a relay from the original wires.
Tampering with the catalyser will make the bike illegal to ride on the road in most countries. Plus it’s bad for karma as the bike will be polluting more.
This said, you can find vendors selling straight pipes to replace the catalyser. But, be aware that the people at Coober ran the bike on a dyno with and without the catalyser and decided not to offer such a pipe due to the loss of power. They are working on a pipe that will replace the catalyser but still provide the necessary back pressure to avoid the power loss. (Coober confirmed their recommendation recently)