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Brake/Clutch controls

Rear Brake

You may have missed it int he manual, but the rnd of the brake pedal is reversible. The way it come from the factory is better if you mostly ride sitting down. On the other hand, if your riding is mostly done standing up on the pegs, you should reverse the brake pedal for better accessibility.

An option to have both modes in one pedal is a part from AltRider ($91) allowing to have two separate platforms next to each other for reachability in all cases.

Vanasche motorsport makes a replacement for the lever and various choices of brake pedal pads to go along with it (lever €126, footpads around €30/€35 depending on style)

Another option is the cleanspeed brake pedal ($150)

Handlebar controls

If you’re like me, brake and clutch levers are consumable. KTM clutch (p/n 63502040000, €60) and brake (p/n 63513002044, €55) levers are ok, but better controls do exists.

Some people suffered catastrophic failure of the front brake with a third party lever. Check the fitment of the rod on the lever once installed, there must be freeplay and the rod must rest in the center of the hole.

Warning when installing the levers: the pin holding them are not the same on the right and on the left. On the brake side the pin (p/n 64113006000) screws in the front master cylinder housing and is also locked with a lock nut. On the clutch side the pin (p/n 64102038000) is only retained by lock nut, it doesn’t screw into the body. And yes, the smooth top are just bit of plastic to prevent water pooling inside the hex recess, and those plastic bits are not shown in the part list (don’t lose them!).

Raximo makes short (€100/pair) and long (€120/pair) replacement levers in aluminium with a large choice of colors. I’m sure you can select more tasteful colors than the ones below:

Watch out for the Chinese knock off on ebay or other. People have ordered parts and they never shipped, and some received 790 Duke parts (they are different, the Duke has a radial master cylinder).

If you just want a shorter lever and not afraid of some DIY, garageengineer on ADVRider posted a how to to shorten the stock clutch lever.

Hacked short clutch lever

For fans of short levers the wild@heart levers have a small cult following, and are described as the best short levers ever. Molded for two fingers, with a long end stop (3000 SA rands, around 145€/$170). advrider thread.


Handlebar clutch switch

There are a few reports of the handlebar switch failing, and the only notice is the Quickshifter no longer working, or the bike refusing to start when a gear is engaged. The replacement switch come with a cable long enough to get into the headlight, but you could just change the switch as it cost next to nothing at your nearest electronic store. See this how-to for example.

Clutch arm

A shorter clutch lever, activated with two fingers, is harder to pull than a full sized one of course. Short or long, Camel ADV made a small little gadget making the clutch course longer and diminishing the effort at the lever. It’s called the One Finger Clutch.

Someone on facebook made another longer clutch extender, no idea of availability or cost:

Clutch hydraulic conversion

Hydraulic conversions for the clutch are available as well, Magura makes a conversion kit ($330 or so), available at your nearest Magura distributor (Rottweiler Performance or or touratech for example). Touratech made a video describing the install.

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