For other supports, see GPS mounts.

I designed two GPS support. The first version was very simple and only need drilling to set in place. But it failed once, and once is one too many. Please stop using that mount or at a minimum use a tether.

The second version is more robust, uses threaded inserts to keep thing in place. But it requires more DIY work.

All my designs are free, I provide the STL ready to print and also the OpenSCAD file used to create it, allowing you to modify the design if you wish. OpenSCAD is free and can be installed on any computer.

Original simple version

The files are still available on Thingiverse. If you print or have printed this design be aware that the tabs holding the mount to the bike can break. At a minimum please use a tether (any kind of line preventing your GPS to fall if the tabs break).

Version with inserts

This version is sturdier, but requires some manual labor once the part is printed. So first you print the part using your favorite techniques. The STL is also available on thingiverse. Note that for extrusion printing the part will need supports for all the holes.

Then you need brass inserts and fit them. I found mine on amazon, but those are very easy to source. the part is designed for two type of inserts:

• Two M5x10x7 to insert in the holes connecting to the bike
• Four M4x10x6 for the AMPS pattern

To insert them put them in place in the entrance of the hole (there is a lip for this purpose in the print) then use a soldering iron to make it hot and let it sink in the plastic by using just the weight of the soldering iron, don’t push! When it is getting very close to its final position remove the soldering iron, flip the part and press it against something flat. this video should make this clearer:

Once the inserts are installed, putting it on the bike is trivial. Bolt it on. Then use 4mm screws to attach your favorite device.

People are confused by the fuel gauge. Plus the fact that some of them where not calibrated properly lead to a lot of confusion.

First of all the fuel gauge only works for the second half of the tank. This is explained in the manual. For the first 10 liters the fuel gauge will show full and the range indicators will display a range with a plus sign, the range being the distance you will do on the half tank. For the second half of the tank each bar is approximately two liters.

If this is not confusing enough, there is also a special behavior of the fuel gauge, caused by the split tank design. The fuel gauge is mounted in the right side tank bottom. When the bike is parked, on the side stand, the fuel will will run to the left side fuel tank trough the connection tubing on the bottom. With little fuel (1/4 and less) in the tank most fuel will end up on the left side. When you start riding, the fuel gauge will indicate a very low fuel level, blinking red. After a few minutes the fuel will move over to the right hand side again and balance out, then the fuel gauge will show normal level again and the fuel range will increase to what it actually is.

In short, don’t trust the fuel level as you start the bike. Ride for three or four minutes to get an accurate reading.

This is not a defect, but a normal behavior of the tank design with two low halves. If KTM had mounted the fuel gauge in the left side, it would show a much too large level when you start riding, which might leave you stranded shortly after. One option would be two fuel sensors, one on each side and some software to clear things up, but hey, more complexity, more money 🙂

Note also that the fuel tank has two valves on the bottom, one on each side. If you tank reads full but your bike stops, check that the last person who touched the bike actually opened *both* valves.