This adds Rally Mode to the base S model. Your KTM dealer need to install a software enabler (P/n 63500910000) at about £175. Rally mode is only software and included on the ‘R’.
There was an interesting chart passed on by KTM to the journalists during the bike presentation in Morocco about what setting to use in which conditions. It was published in this article and reproduced below.
On the left side roll the factory rubber grip back: on the bottom there is a set screw. Remove and slide the entire grip off.
For the right side remove the throttle tube system from the bike by unscrewing the 2 Phillips screws from the throttle sensor/housing. The throttle tube slides right off.
KTM easy to install option
(P/n is 64112964044), cost about £145, with a separate non-integrated controller.
The big advantage of the KTM part is the simplicity of the throttle install as the grips are designed to fit in place of the existing parts: reverse the steps for removing the grips to install the heated one, it’s dead easy.
Despite the easy install the result of installing the KTM grips is not well integrated with the bike, with an ugly controller which resets every time the ignition is turned off. .
Third party install
You might want to consider non KTM options, and go with the grips you like. Below you can find the steps to install the Koso Apollo grips (also known as Tecnoglobe Gold) which have an integrated controller in the left grip. Make sure to get the 130mm version.
There is discussion as the exact diameter of those grips once installed. The two installs used to write this FAQ entry disagree on the sizes! One states that they are slimmer than the original grip. The other claims that the same grips are thicker! I guess more that one versions of those grips exists, hence the discrepancy?
On the left side, install is dead easy: slide the new grip in place, you’re done.
The difficulty of the install is all due to the throttle tube. It is not available as a separate part from KTM, so you need to figure a way to unglue the rubber from the plastic tube and then file it clean. There is however a third party aluminium throttle tube available (Also at Slavens Racing, $80). But it needs some filing done to grind the first ridge so the 130mm slid all the way to the end.
To retrieve the throttle tube one way is to scrap the grip off with a blade. It’s long and dirty, but works:
Another option is to make a slit on the whole length of the rubber and skin it off, way cleaner, but it’s difficult not to score the plastic tube.
Once the rubber is removed from the tube, you need to remove the tabs there with a blade as they will prevent the new rubber to slip in place. They are pointed out in this picture. Note the inner hump next to the sensor housing: removing it makes for a snug fit without a strange gap between the housing and the grip. The fit is PERFECT but you only have one try since the fit is so tight.
Once the tube is clean, put the new grips on. On the throttle side pay attention to the position of the wire on the throttle tube as to not limit the range of motion. Check 3 times before doing it.
The rest is easier, just decide if you want to connect to the accessory connector under the seat or in the headlight. The headlight is closer, and easy to open despite the numerous screws. Make sure to fix all the wires and the small controller to not be in the way of any moving parts.
Enabler code (p/n 63500980000) costs about £220, plus a replacement for the four-way combination switch which includes cruise switch (p/n 76011270100), about £78. Total about £300.
Something to be aware off: the cruise control is connected to the traction control: if the road you’re on triggers the traction control to intervene the cruise control will automatically disconnect. This is probably a safety feature, but might catch you by surprise if you go over a bump.
Order the combination switch early, stocks are low and the part may take more than a month to arrive. Your dealer can activate CC without the switch and you can install it later, but in that case there is a simple procedure to follow to sync the hardware switch with the software (thanks to CrazyCole on advrider.com for the details):
Switch on the ignition
Cruise control system indicator lamp flashes
Press the newly installed control tip switch to the left for 3 seconds
Press the cruise control tip switch to position RES/+ for 3 seconds
Press the cruise control tip switch to position SET/- for 3 seconds
Turn the throttle grip forward past the neutral position (Force it forward a bit, there is a switch on the throttle to disconnect the cruise control if you forcefully decelerate)
The cruise control system indicator lamp should go out
Switch off the ignition
There is a video showing how to install the combination switch and enabling it.
Bikes are pre-equipped. Your dealer need to install a software enabler (P/n 61600940000) about £334.
Once installed and enabled there is a new menu available to turn it on and off. The quickshifter works for both upshift (cutting power) and downshift (blipping the throttle).
If the menu is not present, quickshift+ is not installed. You can still change gear up without using the clutch if you do it at the right RPM, but this is not a true shifter that is cutting the power. Some (rare) bikes have the quickshift active but nothing in the menu: it is a factory misconfiguration and the feature will disappear when the dealer updates the software on the bike…
There are two pairs of connectors you can use to power accessories pulling less than 10Amp (GPS, Heated grips…) either switched by ignition or permanent. Those are documented in the manual.
Two are under the seat, and an easy reach.
Two are inside the headlight housing and are more complicated to access:
The manual points to the access hatch under the headlight housing where those should be accessible. On the R accessing the hatch requires removing the mud guard. But unfortunately, on most bikes the wires are tucked in in a way that make this access impractical.
Another way to access is to dismantle the headlight, this takes a lot of screws, a lot of swearing, and solving the enigma of how to remove the metal bar. When you’ve done it once it become easier, and there are great how-to to get you there. The beginning of this video is a step by step removal of the complete front headlight; for the purpose of accessing the power plug there is too much dismantling, but it covers all the bases.
Another alternative reported to work is to access the wires by disconnecting the headlight from the frame, 6 screws, pull it. Putting everything back in is the larger challenge, having another set of hand to help is not superfluous.
In all cases use loctite on all screws on reassembly.
What to connect and where
Most of the accessories for a motorcycle should be connected to switched power to prevent emptying the battery. But both accessory plugs are sharing one 10 amps fuse. In general this is plenty enough: a GPS will pull less than an amp, heated grips around 3 amps. But if you are accessory happy and you plug a GPS, heated grips, heated vest, comfort heated seats, heated boot soles and a set of high power lights you may end up pulling too much energy for the poor fuse.
A simple way to double the available power is to add a relay to pull from the permanent power, which is on another 10 amp fuse. An explanation on how to do this is available on snafu.org.